Table - Side Table for storing CDs (End Table), Woodworking Plans
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ORDER
A side table for storing your CDs and tapes.
This traditional-looking storage table keeps your CDs and tapes out of sight, but at the same time makes
them easily accessible.
Electronic entertainment media are everywhere these days.
Cassette recorders, VCRs, and DVD and CD players have
changed the way we enjoy our leisure time. These devices
provide an almost unlimited selection of enriching and
entertaining pursuits. Unfortunately, the more we use them,
the more storage space we need. Most entertainment-
center cabinets provide for some storage, but often this
space is insufficient.
To address this need, we designed a small side table with
three drawers sized specifically for these items. The table
has a traditional style that can fit in a variety of room
settings. And it's proportioned to serve as a lamp table, end
table or night stand.
It also has the advantage of being quite easy to build. It has
a minimum of parts, and its joinery is extremely basic. You
should be able to complete it in three or four weekends,
and still have time to mow the lawn or take a well-deserved
nap.
We built our table from solid mahogany and mahogany
plywood, but it would look equally attractive in cherry or
walnut. It has drawer boxes built of solid maple with slide-in
lywood bottoms.
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Building The Base And Top
Begin construction on your side table by cutting
slightly oversize blanks for the table sides, back
and bottom from mahogany plywood. Rip and
crosscut mahogany edge-banding strips. Glue
and clamp the strips. After 20 minutes, scrape off
excess glue, then let the glue cure. Use a plane to
trim the edge banding flush to the panel
(Photo
1).
Next, trim the panels to finished dimension.
Glue and clamp strips of mahogany to the
plywood panel edges, and then trim them
flush to the panel with a block plane.
Rip and crosscut the table legs, and mark their
tapered profiles. Use a band saw to cut the legs
to shape
(Photo 2).
Clamp each leg to the
workbench, then use a block plane to remove saw
marks
(Photo 3).
Mark the taper on two faces of each leg,
then cut the tapers on a band saw. Stay
on the waste side of the pencil line.
Clamp each leg to the workbench top.
Next, use a block plane to remove saw
marks and refine the leg taper.
Lay out the locations of the joining-plate slots on
the sides, back, bottom and legs. Use the plate
joiner to cut all the slots except those in the rear
legs that receive the case back. These are cut
later. Hold a leg firmly to the workbench, and cut
the joining-plate slot
(Photo 4).
Cut the joining-
plate slots in the panel edges and along the
bottom edge of the back panel
(Photo 5).
Mark joining-plate centers on each leg,
then cut the plate slots. Hold the leg firmly
to the work surface while doing this.
Clamp a tall backstop to the workbench,
and hold a panel firmly against it. Cut
joining-plate slots in the panel edge.
Apply glue to the joining-plate slots in the legs,
the slots in the side panels and the joining plates.
Then, clamp together the two subassemblies,
each consisting of two legs and a side panel
(Photo 6).
When the glue has fully cured on the
subassemblies, use the plate joiner to cut the
slots in the rear legs for the joints with the back
panel. Clamp a straightedge to the assembly to
help position the plate joiner when cutting the
slots. Note that these plate slots will slightly
intersect with the plates that form the side-panel
joints.
Assemble two legs and one table side
with glue and joining plates. Apply
pressure with a clamp at each plate
cation.
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Next, join the back and bottom panels with joining
plates, glue and clamps
(Photo 7).
Complete the
base by joining this subassembly with the side
panels and legs
(Photo 8).
Glue and clamp together the table back
and bottom. Take this subassembly and
join it to the leg-side subassemblies.
Use bar clamps at the location of each
joining plate to evenly distribute pressure
when assembling the table case.
Cut the plywood panel for the table's top, and
prepare the edge banding. Cut miters on the ends
of two pieces of edge banding so they correspond
to the dimensions of the top, and then glue and
clamp these to the top. Cut mitered ends on the
remaining edge banding, then glue and clamp
these to the top
(Photo 9).
Glue and clamp two mitered edge-
banding strips to the top. Then, cut the
mitered banding strips that fit between
them.
Gently plane the edge banding flush to the top
after the glue has cured, and cut the molding on
the edge banding with a router and cove bit. We
used a shallow-cutting cove bit (Item No. 387,
MLCS, Box 4053/C-24, Rydal, PA 19046; 800-
533-9298). Cut joining-plate slots in the bottom of
the tabletop, and then glue and clamp the top to
the table base using standard plate-joining
procedure.
The drawer box is built with rabbeted and
grooved pieces. Assemble the box with
glue and finishing nails.
Drawer Making
Rip and crosscut the drawer box pieces and the
bottoms, then cut the rabbets and grooves in
them using a dado blade in a table saw. Drill 1/16-
in.-dia. pilot holes in the drawers
(Photo 10).
Slide each bottom into its groove
(Photo 11).
Cut the plywood drawer bottom to size.
Once the glue has cured, slide the drawer
bottom into its groove.
Install the drawer slides on the table's sides and
on the drawer boxes according to the
manufacturer's instructions.
Cut drawer faces to size and install them
(Photo
12).
Install a knob on each drawer face. Install the
drawers, and adjust the slides so the drawers
have a uniform 1/16-in. margin on all sides.
Remove the drawers from the table and remove
the knobs and slides before finishing. Sand all
surfaces with
120-, 150-, 180- and 220-grit sandpaper. Dust off
the surfaces completely between grits.
Clamp the drawer front to the drawer box,
bore pilot holes, and attach the front with
flathead screws.
Since mahogany is an open-grained wood, the first finishing step is to apply a
grain filler. We used Behlen Pore-O-Pac Paste Wood Filler (Item No. 843-812,
Woodworker's Supply, 1108 N. Glenn Rd., Casper, WY 82601; 800-645-
9292). To apply the filler, thin it with naphtha to a creamy consistency, then
spread it over the surface with a paintbrush. When the filler appears dull,
scrub it off with a burlap rag. Let the filler dry overnight, then sand the surface
with 320-grit sandpaper.
We stained our table with Behlen Solar-Lux, a non-grain-raising, dye-based
stain (Item No. 847-466, Medium Brown Mahogany, Woodworker's Supply).
Although this stain is meant to be applied with a spray gun, it can be brushed
on if you add a retarder to it (Item No. 847-585, Woodworker's Supply).
Let the stain dry overnight before applying the first coat of Waterlox
Transparent Finish (Item No. 294-001, Woodworker's Supply). Apply this
according to the directions on the container.
MATERIALS LIST--STORAGE TABLE
Key
No.
Size and description (use)
A1
2
3/4 x 15 x 15 11/16" plywood (side)
A2
2
3/8 x 3/4 x 15" mahogany (edge banding)
B1
1
3/4 x 15 11/16 x 17" plywood (back)
B2
1
3/8 x 3/4 x 17" mahogany (edge banding)
C1
1
3/4 x 14 5/8 x 17" plywood (bottom)
C2
1
3/8 x 3/4 x 17" mahogany (edge banding)
D
4
1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 25 1/4" mahogany (leg)
E1
1
3/4 x 18 x 20" plywood (top)
E2
2
3/4 x 1 x 22" mahogany (molding)
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